"IKAT/eCUT - Textiles between Art, Design, Tradition and Technology is a Goethe-Institut project exploring the past, present and future of textiles in Southeast Asia, Australia and New Zealand (and Germany). In different sub-projects it is looking at the cultural potency of textiles in many different fields – from the arts to design, from tradition to technology." - quoted from Goethe-Insitute website
Fast Fashion
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Fashion & Victims
"Fast fashion manufacturers entice their consumers with an intentionally low-end pricing policy so they buy more clothes
that they actually need to.
This marketing ploy appeals to unconscious human instincts. Opting for a comparatively cheaper offer feeds the illusion
of frugality and therefore increases the opportunity for further consumption.
Regular end-of-season and clearance-sale campaigns keep creating new incentives to buy. Numerous glossy magazines
present the exciting worlds of stars and celebrities. Fashion brands use this media attention to their advantage by gifting products and turning celebrities into advertising media. Fast fashion in turn transforms these 'star outfits' into cut-price versions for subsequent purchase.
Such a low-price policy and rapid fashion cycles succeed at the expense of textile workers at the other end of
the production chain, forcing them to live under precarious working conditions. They are therefore the real fashion victims." |
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The Hierarchy of Needs According to Maslow
Maslow explicitly defines self-actualization to be "the desire for self-fulfillment, namely the tendency for him [the individual] to become actualized in what he is potentially. This tendency might be phrased as the desire to become more and more what one is, to become everything that one is capable of becoming."
my mind : when a person achieve his/her dream / bucket-list.
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just like watching the runaway
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| Textile Industry Wage "A living wage should be a fundamental right. However one rule applies in the clothing industry: cheap and quick - something that takes priority over fair pay and improved working standards. Asia is home to 60% of the world's clothing industry. Unskilled seamstresses make up 80% of the workforce. They are forced to work 80 hours a week in return for starvation wage which could never even be considered a minimum wage. A complete lack of work and health insurance, maternity leave and protection against dismissal, poor workplace safety standards, miserable living conditions and poor nourishment are part of everyday life. Exploitation in the clothing industry also goes on in former socialist countries and in Turkey. The gap between the legal minimum wage and a living wage is partly even greater than in Asia. Living Wages "A 'living wage' is defined as an earned income that allows a worker to feed himself and his family, pay the rent, have enough for health, clothing, mobility and education costs as well as a little money set aside if anything unexpected may happen. A living wage should be at the basic wage paid in a regular working week, independently of any overtime or bonuses. This regular working week should never be more than 48 hours worked. |
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| Death of A Thousand Dreams "24th April 2013, 9am. Becoming a brutal incident of history, the nine-story commercial building Rana Plaza collapsed at Savar, Dhaka, Bangladesh and left more than 1134 workers dead, more than hundred missing and many other wounded. Around a thousand families have found dead bodies of their beloved family members. Many families moved from police stations to morgues in search of their relatives. Many people are missing. Workers of the Rana Plaza are part of the 4 million garment workers from Bangladesh. They produce clothes for Europe, America, international markets and international brands. By the tag Made in Bangladesh on the product, they earn a lot of foreign currency for national economy. With a dream of living a better life, people from villages come to the workers barracks at cities. With the collapse of Rana Plaza all their dreams have been ruined. Rana Plaza collapse raises question to national-international owners, brands and government about their role to secure working condition. It also raises question about all citizens and consumers responsibility. With this documentary photo story I have tried to portray the narrative of the death of thousand dreams. Photograph by Taslima Akhter, Activist & Photographer, lives and works in Dhaka, Bangladesh 2013 |
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| Clothing Recycle Photograph by Tim Mitchell (www.timmitchell.co.uk) Research by Lucy Norris (www.wornclothing.co.uk) 2005 |
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| clothing tag 'Made in ...' was placed on according to the manufacturer country. country that fills with black ink as a largest contribution. |
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| Where Does Our Clothing Come From? "...Yet there are in fact no consistent statutory regulations for this designation. ..., so such indication do not help make the complex production process transparent. Often the 'made in' label is attached in the place where the last manufacturing process, such as sewing on of buttons, takes place." |
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| Asia is the largest fashion manufacturing |
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| What Elements Make Up The Price of a T-ShirtTrade & profit Marketing Taxes Profit factory Material Transport Wage |
Slow Fashion Lab
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| Covered in white fabric. White as a representative of something good / kind. |
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| words by Nidiya Kusmaya "Slow fashion is a long process because it is not merely an act to extend durability or production but must consider all other aspects. It is important to minimize the negative impacts of its production, and enlarge positive impacts. Despite the long process, this is sustainable. Planting natural dyes requires land, what if we run out of land? The term 'sandang, pangan, papan' means 'clothing, food and shelter' which prioritize clothing, but food is also a basic need, so if there is no land, how can we produce clothing? Food cycle can be further extended into the production of clothing. I'm concerned about such 'what if?' issues and have developed bacteria micro-farming to produce natural dyes for textiles, rather than conventional farming technique. Art is not only meant to meet tertiary needs, but also to touch the primary aspects of human life, interconnected cycles between technology-craft-art-design and science is an important thing. Artists need to bridge and connect all aspects so that everyone can see that art can build such an understanding." |
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| word by Hayuning Sumbadra, Adra World "Slow fashion should not follow four-season trends, or even six-season as happened in the West, since we are living in a two-season country. Nowadays, there are more levels of the fashion industry, such as highstreet labels that redesign runway items to make them affordable for the masses. Thus, more people buy and dispose of them; this act eventually became fast fashion. Designers became concerned that they would be rivaled, although the quality is very different, the workers are also often paid less. While designer and fast fashion are competing. Earth is the one that suffers. Slow fashion in Indonesia should not participate in this rat race because we have different cultures and situations. There are many ways toward slow fashion but not everything is easy and cheap. Slow fashion is not always referring to natural fibers or dyes. For example, digital prints: there must be polyester-based material for digital printing but the process is considered sustainable because it can be tailored to specific needs even though it might be more expensive. Strategic production and process is the key." |
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| i heart this clutch |
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| as usual i kidnapped tanta Jojo with her church outfit |
after seen
- every season fashion designer / fashion brands through fashion cycles tells consumers which clothes should they buy. this thing could lure consumers to changing their fashion and begin to buy more clothes that they don't actually need.
- through marketing and advertising via celebrities could turn the average textile into fashion clothes. so on, it could raise the attractiveness of the consumers who buy it.
- a seasonal must-have trick also a trigger for consumers desire.
- "'Limited edition' are created through the cooperation between fast-fashion manufacturers and star designers and are based on the principle of 'desirability through scarcity'. Psychologically, human beings automatically assign a higher value to goods with lower quantitative and temporal availability. This decision-making process runs unconsciously in the brain and makes 'limited edition' all the more desirable."
- exploitation is not only happened in human beings, but also animal. wearing an animal genuine fur is kind of a pride to some people. but don't they know how to get that fur, i saw sheeps were killed cruelly in video at the exhibition.
- nature also a victim. i saw a water pollution at some river that i forget the name. this water river turns into red or blue with the exaggerate un-normal bubble.
- "In general, consumers today have adopted hybrid buying behaviors. Regarding fashion, this means that they mix labels and brands across the fashion hierarchy; from high-end fashion, through ready-to-wear in the middle price segment and fast fashion, to discounter apparel."
- highlight word : exploitation, super minimum wage, cheap & quick, sustainable fashion
- my mind thinking, we as a consumer who also as a demander. we need to be selective when purchasing clothes as a part to save the workers that underpaid. but at the other perspective as a manufacturer, if the demand is low, they won't hire workers, then it could lead the workers to be a jobless.
while writing this post i found an intrigue article that titled 5 Truths the Fast Fashion Industry Doesn't Want You Know
i hope after you read this, you will be more environmentally aware when purchasing clothes.
written 25|11|17 10pm
